The medieval town of Ivrea, near Turin in Piedmont, comes alive in February. Its historic Carnival draws on legends of the 12th century and commemorates the rebellion of the people against the cruel regime of the tyrant Raineri di Biandrate, lord of the town. The story goes that Raineri gave himself the right to sleep with any bride on her wedding night. He got his punishment when Violetta, the beautiful daughter of a miller, refused to sleep with him, cut off his head with a dagger and showed it to the people gathered beneath the castle walls. Known as the Mugnaia, she has thus travelled down the centuries to become Ivrea's symbol of freedom from all forms of tyranny – and nowadays she is still the heroine of the Carnival.
A more recent addition is the orange fight. Royal battles are fought in the town's historical squares between throwers on foot representing the people in revolt and others on waggons drawn by horses in gay trappings, who take the part of the tyrant's officers.
So why oranges? Well, originally the people threw beans. However, around the 19th century girls began to throw oranges – a precious fruit that isn’t native to Ivrea – at boys they fancied. And if the boys liked them – they threw an orange back. Today it’s a contest, with rules and town teams.
A torch-light procession leaves the Town Hall with the Mugnaia and orange-throwers. After that the battles commence in the town squares.
During the carnival the streets are lit up and filled with the scent of oranges, and regional specialities are served in the streets .
|